Eco tourism In Costa Rica: Tirimbina Rainforest Center

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Eco tourism in Costa Rica takes many shapes and forms and is experienced or enjoyed in different ways. Indeed, the word “eco tourism” means different things and has different connotations to different people.

For many travelers, Costa Rica eco tourism is about enjoying and experiencing Costa Rica’s biological diversity. This little country comprises only about 1/10,000 of the world’s land surface (the size of West Virginia) yet, unbelievably, nearly one of every five species of plant and animal on the globe are found in Costa Rica. The country has more kinds of butterflies than in all of the countries on the entire African continent put together. Costa Rica has recorded almost 900 different kinds of birds, nearly as many as are in the continental United States. The world’s largest Green Sea Turtle preserve has been created off the Caribbean Coast at Tortuguero National Park. 35% of the world’s different species of whales and porpoises (cetaceans) are found in its offshore waters. Humpback whales from Antarctica travel thousands of miles north to Costa Rica every year while Arctic humpbacks swim thousands of miles south to the very same waters. For that reason, Costa Rica has the longest humpback viewing season anywhere. Corcovado National Park is just 20 miles long and some 8 miles wide but, according to National Geographic, is “the most biologically intense place” on the globe. Tens of thousands of persons visit Costa Rica annually to see or experience these kinds of things. I call them “vacation eco tourists.”

But, Costa Rica eco tourism is more diverse than Costa Rica whale watching, or a Costa Rica photography tour, scuba diving off magnificent Cocos Island, or hiking lovely jungle trails to waterfalls. And, few places exemplify that diversity of eco tourism experience better than the Tirimbina Rainforest Center. I bet you never heard of it.

The Tirimbina Rainforest Center sits on about 345 hectares, or 850 acres, of primary rain forest. This is the original rain forest that covered 99% of Central America when Christopher Columbus explored its Caribbean coast in 1502. Indeed, when you visit primary rain forest you will literally see trees that have been around since Columbus’ es time. Unfortunately, over the following five centuries, burning and logging decimated most of the Central American rain forests. Today, only vestiges of this important resource remain.

The Center’s history goes back to 1960 when an American, Robert Hunter, went to Costa Rica to work for the Inter-American Institute for Science and Agriculture and bought the land now occupied by the Center. He invited American scientists to the property, one of whom was Dr. Allen Young of the Milwaukee (Wisconsin) Public Museum, and an internationally acknowledged expert on rain forests and cacao cultivation. Dr. Young, and others, like him, who have visited the Center over the last decades are “research eco tourists.” Their professional curiosity and work on rain forests have proved invaluable.

Dr. Young ‘s fascination with Tirimbina carried over to the Milwaukee Public Museum itself. In 1986, it created a permanent exhibit about the tropical rain forest that it called “Exploring Life on Earth.” Over the next several decades hundreds of thousands of children, men, and women visited the Tirimbina exhibit as “virtual eco tourists” and their increasing awareness of the importance–and fragility-of rain forests have contributed to tropical forest preservation demands by the public. The Museum bought the Tirimbina Rainforest Center and managed it until its 2006 sale to a Milwaukee nonprofit called the Pura Vida Foundation. Today, the Center belongs to a Costa Rica nonprofit organization, the Asociacion Tirimbina Para La Conservacion, Investigacion y Educacion.

Should you be interested in conservation and eco tourism I recommend visiting the Tirimbina Rainforest Center if you are: (a) A “tropical research eco tourist.” The Center is a working rain forest research site with many national and international projects. For 30 years, doctorate research, graduate studies, and museum related projects have taken place there as well; (b) An undergraduate looking for a unique study abroad opportunity. Recently, Ball State University of Indianapolis announced a new Study Abroad in Costa Rica program that will be at the Tirimbina Rainforest Center starting Spring Semester 2010. Students will get college credits and live with local families. Modeled after two very popular Ball State study abroad programs in London and Australia, it will have a uniquely Costa Rica flavor. Each participant will be a “student eco tourist”‘; or (c) Looking to see or visit a working tropical forest research center that also hosts family activities and educational projects like hiking through primary rain forest (there are five miles of trails); a frog tour; a bird tour; a bat tour; even a chocolate tour. There is an aerial tram tour and boat tour as well plus a great number of optional activities (visit the Tirimbina Rainforest Center website for a list). Accommodations and a restaurant are on site for “family ecotourists” who want to stay overnight or for several days.

Even though the tropical rain forest research community has known about the Tirimbina Rainforest Center for over 40 years, just 8,000 Costa Rica eco tourists a year typically visit. It is off the beaten path but if you are planning to travel to Costa Rica and are a serious eco tourist, give the Center serious consideration.

The Beginnings: Costa Rica Eco Tourism, Teddy Roosevelt And The Matterhorn

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Like many of life’s greatest achievements, it began by accident. It started with one unique man on a desolate but beautiful mountain. The man was Teddy Roosevelt; the Matterhorn was the mountain where an idea that changed our world germinated. Today, we call it “eco tourism” and every year it leads thousands of people to a tiny sapphire that Christopher Columbus named ‘Costa Rica’ five centuries ago.

Two decades before he was to become one of America’s finest presidents, Roosevelt traveled to Switzerland. He was one of the world’s great adventurers who loved nature. So it was that he decided to climb the famous Mount Matterhorn. When he did so, however, he was distressed by what he encountered on the mountain or, more accurately, what he did not see.

The mighty Matterhorn Mountain was nearly lifeless. There were no longer any wolves, bears, mountain goats or sheep, creatures of wilderness. Where once there had been abundant life there was now—silence.

Though “eco tourism” didn’t enter the language lexicon for nearly 100 more years, Theodore Roosevelt was the world’s first eco tourist and, I would say, the responsible for today’s eco tourism.

What do Roosevelt and the Matterhorn have to do with Costa Rica eco tourism? More than you might think. The Matterhorn brought home to him the need to set aside vast tracts of land to preserve life and, when he became President, he took on the robber barons and vested interests to set aside 230 million acres as wilderness and parks: an extraordinary achievement for America and singular achievement for the world.

Teddy Roosevelt’s singular accomplishment led to the birth of eco tourism. Americans quickly demonstrated that they will gladly pay money to visit wilderness and see wildlife—at least in the United States.

But, America’s experience was one thing. It was wealthy and developed. Costa Rica was, seemingly, very different. Here was a place that in 1519 its Spanish Governor described “the poorest and most miserable Spanish colony in all Americas.” Four and a half centuries later, now independent and free, most of its forests had been cut or burned to make farm land. Big (American) business dominated its primary product, bananas, and the country was almost completely dependent upon the export of bananas, coffee, and other agricultural products for its economic life. United Fruit Company controlled the banana market and its relations with Costa Rica were often stormy, sometimes icy. Then, in the early 1970s, prices for coffee collapsed during a glut of the product on the world market. The country’s future looked bleak.

With challenge comes opportunity for the bold and thoughtful and, in an apparently unlikely alliance, conservationists and business interests argued in favor of setting aside resources for sustainable, rather than exploitative, development. For whatever reason, the government agreed to this rather bold experiment and, in just three decades, has now set aside nearly 25% of the country for parks and preserves. Roosevelt, ever the visionary, would applaud if still here.

By any measure, and in the span of just three decades (about as long as The Simpsons have been on television!), the results have been stunning. While many countries were slashing, cutting, and burning their forests, Costa Rica chose to reforest. Today, there are 20% more forests than only 25 years ago. Jaguars, peccaries, and other wildlife are returning to places where they haven’t been seen for more than a generation. The country has enthusiastically embraced sustained development, refusing to allow off shore drilling for oil and building renewable power plants. Impressively 99% of its electrical power now comes from hydro-electric plants—and it is beginning to install wind turbines as well. Columbia and Yale researchers now put it within in the top five of all environmentally sensitive countries in the world.

It has been a spectacular reversal in fortune. The country has vaulted into the #1 position on the Happiest Place in the World Index even as Costa Rica eco tourism has soared. Sustainable tourism has lifted the economy while preserving its wonders. As it turns out, Columbus was exactly right when he named this place “the rich coast” or “Costa Rica.” The Spanish governor was dead wrong when he derided Costa Rica as “the poorest and most miserable Spanish colony in Americas.” And, Theodore Roosevelt, the world’s first eco tourist, would smile in delight if he were here today.

To close, we need to revisit the Swiss Matterhorn, the impetus behind Roosevelt’s sudden clarity that parks and preserves were essential to saving wildlife and Costa Rica’s wise extension of that idea leading to today’s incredibly successful Costa Rica eco tourism. Consider the irony here. Costa Rica is often called the “Switzerland” of the tropics but it learned from Swiss failures. Ironically, Switzerland has learned nothing. Costa Rica’s mountains are today filled with life and eco tourism helps fuel its economy. One of every five species of plants and animals on earth are found there. Meanwhile, the magnificent Matterhorn remains silent because its life was exploited and destroyed, not cherished and preserved.

Cocos Island: One of Costa Rica’s Seven Wonders

Cocos Island is one of the treasures of the planet. The famous Jacques Cousteau called this Costa Rica island the most beautiful island he had ever seen , Costa Ricans have voted this little national park one of its Seven Wonders, and it is being considered as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

Though it is a small island located nearly 350 miles off the Costa Rica Pacific coast, it is world famous for its incredible scuba diving. Indeed, its waters are filled with fish, porpoises, whales, and sea turtles, and there are sometimes so many sharks, it is often called Shark Island. Experienced scuba divers travel here from across the planet because it is renowned as the greatest place in the world to dive with large sea animals.

The island has been famous for pirates, real and imagined, for centuries. It is believed by many that Cocos was the inspiration for Robert Lewis Stevenson’s famous pirate adventure Treasure Island but sometimes real pirates sailed to it to escape the English fleet and to bury their treasure. Two great treasures, the Devonshire Treasure and the Lima Treasure, worth hundreds of millions of dollars today, may still be buried there.

It also fired the imagination of Michael Crichton whose world famous Jurassic Park is set off the coast of Costa Rica.

The island is uninhabited except for a few Costa Rica park rangers who are stationed there to protect its waters from poaching. For eons its isolation safeguarded the island’s rainforest and undersea creatures from depredation .

If you are one of the lucky few who get to visit Cocos, you will need previous permission from the rangers to go ashore and you will not be allowed to camp overnight. But, as you walk the shores, thinking of pirates and imagining where the buried treasure is, you will see many rocks along the shore bearing inscriptions from sailors over the centuries. Way before Kilroy was here, sailors wrote their names and dates of visits. There is even find one bearing the name of Jacque Cousteau’s son, who signed a rock a couple of decades ago.

Fiery Arenal Volcano Of Costa Rica

All our luggage and camera gear is packed in the van by 8 a.m. and we are on our way to our first destination, soon to become a real life adventure. We are on a photography tour so everyone is talking cameras and pictures. This is the first day, we are getting to know one another, and the level of excitement in the van is high looking forward to the tour.

Arenal, an active Costa Rica volcano, is our destination but first there are a couple of photography stops along the way. We go first to the little Tico community of Sarchi where brightly colored, decorated oxen carts are made in an old water powered factory. The second stop is nearby Zarcero, which has, as its focal point, an old wooden church and a double row of lovely topiaries leading up to it. Many memory cards are filled just photographing these two places with the magnificent colours and patterns of Sarchi and the incredible shapes of the topiaries in Zarcero.

Luis, our driver, is very familiar with the many potholes that make Costa Rica famous, so he cautiously makes his way along the road while most everyone else, on 2 or 4 wheels, pass us by. The number of wannabe Formula One drivers in Costa Rica is staggering. There is even a bus driver who has been known to have passengers find religion and speak directly to God on his overland route.

After our planned stops and lunch in La Fortuna we are now just a few miles from our lodge at Arenal. As we leave the main highway we find ourselves on a road that is one continuous pothole. It is January and the rainy season has just ended so most roads are in poor condition but what is unique about this road is that it was constructed from crushed lava rock.

Rounding a curve we see a clearing beside a tropical river and there is the perfect cone shape of Arenal Volcano! Those who have never seen a volcano are stunned at the sight.

The top of the cone is shrouded with little fluffy white clouds against a blue sky. It is picture perfect and we quickly stop and everyone piles out of the van attaching cameras to tripods, some of us wading into the river to capture an image from a different perspective and others shooting from the riverbanks.

Who is to say how dangerous being this close to an active volcano can be? Fortunately, Arenal is very predictable and today is closely monitored so there is a very low risk of a serious, catastrophic, unexpected eruption. Only 1 km away from the base of the volcano and 2 km to the top of the cone is the lodge where we stay and without a doubt any activity attracts the attention of everyone.

Getting settled in while we are unpacking mighty Arenal speaks! It roars as smoke and gas billow hundreds of feet into the sky and we hear the rocks tumbling down the slopes. The Mantled Howler monkeys are extremely vocal following the eruption, however, we do not know if this is in protest of the roar or if they are just responding to its call.

While enjoying our meal in the lodge dining room mighty Arenal speaks again! Although there are many photo opportunities in Costa Rica, who would have imagined that while eating dinner we would be gazing up at a volcano erupting in front of our eyes? And this on our very first day of the tour!

The next two nights are without much sleep since we find comfortable chairs in the common area of the lodge just outside our rooms and we mount our cameras on tripods attaching cable releases. Since I had already been to Arenal many times I had chosen to use an 80-200mm lens set at 80mm and an aperture of f8, the camera shutter set at “B” for time exposure.

I think a time exposure of more than 20 minutes will produce an ugly yellow blob of light since there is a lot of activity of small flare-ups at the cone. Lava is flowing down the opposite side, so I allow no more than 20 minutes to pass before I closing the shutter and starting another exposure. The use of a cable release makes these exposures very easy and while we were there Arenal puts on quite a pyrotechnical show.

Arenal is the first adventure in Costa Rica for my photo group. With another eight days of photography everybody is looking forward to the next destination that is going to be just as exciting.